I’m so excited to share with you my free sewing pattern for a Kitchen Aid mixer cover. I’ve been wanting to make this project for a long time, and it turned out so fabulous!
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My mixer cover has beautifully rounded sides, 3 pockets, and can be sewn with home decor weight fabric, pre-quilted fabric, or fabric that you quilt yourself with quilt batting, craft felt, or foam stabilizer in between two layers of material.
The two main fabrics I used are from the Flower Sugar Maison Oxford collection from Lecien. Please search for it on Google if you are interested. There is very little left!
I’m going to share with you details for making a flat front pocket and side pocket plus one pleated side pocket. The pleated pocket is nice for holding your beaters, and it’s very cute! See photo above.
The finished dimensions of this DIY Mixer Cover are approximately 14’’ tall x 14 1/2’’ wide x 10 1/2’’ deep. It fits my Kitchenaid Artisan 5 QT mixer easily. The pattern template and cutting dimensions below include an XL size which is 2’’ taller to fit the Professional series mixers.
To my great delight, I discovered that the regular sized cover perfectly fits standard sized sewing machines too! It is just the right size for my Janome Pink Sorbet sewing machine, and Janome CoverPro 900CPX, and a snug fit for my Babylock Evolution Serger.
At the end of this post I have included instructions for altering this pattern to fit extra large sewing and embroidery machines.
So let’s get sewing!
DIY KitchenAid Mixer Cover Sewing Pattern
To make the regular (large) size cover, you will need:
1 yard of double sided pre-quilted fabric or home decor weight fabric
OR 1 yard each of two cotton fabrics and a layer of batting, foam stabilizer, or craft felt so you can quilt them yourself (I used ByAnnie Soft and Stable)
1/4 yd quilting cotton fabric for binding
To make the extra large cover, you will need:
1 1/4 yards of double sided pre-quilted fabric or home decor weight fabric
OR 1 1/4 yards each of two cotton fabrics and a layer of batting, foam stabilizer, or craft felt so you can quilt them yourself
1/4 yd quilting cotton fabric for binding
NOTE: I used directional fabric, hence the pattern is upside down on the back side of the cover (not shown). This does not bother me. If it will bother you, please do not pick directional fabric.
You will also need:
a fabric marking pen or tailor’s chalk
fabric basting spray (such as SpraynBaste) – optional
Optional instructions for making your own quilted fabric:
All dimensions are height x width. Cut in the order suggested.
For the regular sized cover, cut:
2 fabric pieces (exterior and lining) and one batting (or foam stabilizer) piece 35’’ x 16’’ (for the main body piece)
2 fabric pieces (exterior and lining) and one batting (or foam stabilizer) piece 16 1/2’’ x 24’’ (for the side pieces)
2 fabric pieces (exterior and lining) and one batting (or foam stabilizer) piece 15’’ x 24’’ (for the pockets)
Alternative: cut 2 fabric pieces and one batting (or foam stabilizer) piece 8’’ x 40’’ (for the pockets)
For the XL sized cover, cut:
2 fabric pieces exterior and lining) and one batting (or foam stabilizer) piece 39’’ x 16’’ (for the main body piece)
2 fabric pieces (exterior and lining) and one batting (or foam stabilizer) piece 18 1/2’’ x 24’’ (for the side pieces)
2 fabric pieces (exterior and lining) and one batting (or foam stabilizer) piece 17’’ x 24’’ (for the pockets)
Alternative: cut 2 fabric pieces and one batting (or foam stabilizer) piece 9’’ x 40’’ (for the pockets)
1. Lay your exterior fabric wrong side down against a batting or foam stabilizer piece of the same size. Adhere with spray-baste (such as SpraynBond) or machine baste around the edges 1/8’’ from the edge.
I love to machine baste when using foam stabilizer. See my easy video tutorial here.
2. Lay your lining fabric with the wrong side against the opposite side of the batting or foam stabilizer. Adhere with spray-baste (such as SpraynBond) or machine baste around the edges 1/8’’ from the edge.
Repeat for the three sets of fabric and stabilizer listed above.
3. Quilt your 3 pieces as desired. I used a fabric marking pen to draw diagonal lines 2’’ apart, and then I used my walking foot to quilt over the marked lines.
After quilting, your three pieces will be trimmed and cut to the specific dimensions listed below.
Cutting instructions (after quilting, if desired)
From your pre-quilted fabric or home decor weight fabric, cut:
1 main body piece 35’’ x 15’’ (39’’ x 15’’ for XL size)
2 side pieces from the pattern template
1 main pocket piece 7’’ x 15’’ (8’’ x 15’’ for XL size)
1 flat side pocket piece 7’’ x 11’’ (8’’ x 11’’ for XL size)
1 pleated pocket piece 7’’ x 12’’ (8’’ x 12’’ for XL size)
From your binding fabric, cut:
1 main pocket binding piece 2 1/2’’ x 15’’
2 side pocket binding pieces 2 1/2’’ x 11’’
1 bottom binding piece 2 1/2’’ x 60’’ (sew strips together to make 60’’)
Tip: If you have used quilted fabric, baste around all of the pieces 1/8’’ from the edge to ‘seal’ the edges.
Make The Pockets
1. Fold the three pocket binding strips lengthwise (wrong side facing) and press flat.
2. Pin or clip the 15’’ long binding strip against the lining side (top edge) of the main pocket piece. The raw edges of the binding and top edge should be aligned.
Sew with a 1/4’’ seam allowance. Use an even feed (walking foot) if desired.
3. Turn the binding to the front (exterior side) of the pocket and clip in place. Stitch the binding down close to the fold.
4. Repeat steps 2-3 with one piece of 2 1/2’’ x 11’’ pocket binding and the 7’’ x 11’’ (or 8’’ x 11’’ for XL) pocket piece to make a flat side pocket.
5. To make the pleated side pocket, make three marks on the top edge and the bottom edge of the 7’’ x 12’’ (or 8’’ x 12’’ for XL) pocket piece.
The first mark should be in the center, and the two other marks are on either side, 1/2’’ away.
More specifically, the marks are at 5 1/2’’, 6’’, and 6 1/2’’ along the top and bottom edge.
6. Make tiny pleats by folding both outer marks to touch the center mark.
Pin the tiny pleats in place. When the pleats are properly pinned, the top and bottom edge should both measure 11’’ across.
7. Stitch across the pleats 1/8’’ from the edge to secure them at the top and the bottom.
Press the pleats flat, if desired.
8. Bind the top edge of the pleated pocket in the same way as the other two pockets.
9. Pin or clip the side pockets to the bottom half of the side pieces. Baste the pockets in place along the raw edges, 1/8’’ from the edge.
10. Pin or clip the main pocket to one end of the main body piece as seen above. Baste in place 1/8’’ from the raw edges.
Sew the Mixer Pieces Together
1. Use the fabric marking pen to mark the center of the main body piece along both long edges.
Mark the center (top) of the side pieces also.
2. Use small scissors to make 1/4’’ clips that are 1/2’’ apart for about 8’’ on either side of the center marks on the main body piece.
3. Clip one side piece to a long edge of the main body piece as follows:
First match the center mark on the main body piece to the center mark on the side piece and clip together with right sides facing.
Then clip the bottom corners of the main body piece to the bottom corners of the side piece.
Working slowly, clip the rest of the edges together. More clips will be needed around the curves. The 1/4’’ clips made into the main body piece will help it ease around the side piece.
4. Stitch with a 1/4’’ seam allowance.
Tip: Sew with the side piece against the bed of your sewing machine. This way you can help the straight edges to ease around the curved side piece (because of the scissor clips you made).
5. Clip the remaining side piece to the main body piece in the same way. Stitch with a 1/4’’ seam allowance.
Finish the raw edges with a zig-zag stitch or serger if desired.
Bind the Bottom Edge
1. Fold the 60’’ long binding strip in half lengthwise (wrong sides facing) and press flat.
2. Stitch the binding to the inside edge of the cover with the raw edges aligned, using a 1/4’’ seam allowance.
Start and stop on the back side of the cover, leaving about 4-5’’ of binding unsewn at the start, and then stopping about 6’’ away from the place where you started.
3. Bring the ends of the binding to meet in the center and fold them back. Finger press the folded edges and clip or pin the binding so that the folds butt up against each other.
4. Trim away the extra binding to leave just 1/4’’ past the fold on either side.
5. Place the binding ends right sides together and stitch with a 1/4’’ seam allowance.
6. Finger press the seam open. Refold the binding as before, and finish sewing the binding to the bottom edge of the mixer cover.
7. Fold the binding around to the front of the cover and stitch it down close to the fold.
Yay! I can’t wait to see your beautiful mixer cover. Please post a picture to Instagram and tag me @sewcanshe or #sewcanshe so I can take a look!
How to Alter This Pattern to Fit XL Sewing Machines:
As you saw at the top of this post, the regular sized cover fits my Janome sewing machine that is 12’’ tall, 16’’ wide, and 7’’ deep.
If you would like a cover to fit a sewing machine wider than 16’’ (such as an extra-large sewing or embroidery machine), you should make the main body piece and the main pocket piece the same width as your sewing machine.
For example, if your sewing machine is 18’’ wide, then make your main body piece 34’’ x 18’’ instead of 34’’ x 15’’.
The main pocket piece will also need to be the same width as the main body piece. For example, for a 18’’ wide main body piece, cut the main pocket 7’’ x 18’’ instead of 7’’ x 15’’.
Also consider using the XL pattern if your sewing machine is taller than 14’’.
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