Pink Peplum Top #2 from Mccalls M6754 (why you should try a pattern at least twice)

I made another pink peplum! The first was cute {see it here} and I got lots of sweet feedback (thank you!), but I’m not really comfortable wearing it because the neckline is so big. I feel awkward in it unless I wear a tank underneath, and that defeats the purpose of a cute knit top to throw on.

The pattern is McCalls 6754 and the problem with my first top stemmed from the fact that I made the size specified for me based on my measurements (imagine that!) and it was really baggy. So I took it in quite a bit at the side, center, and back seams which widened the neckline.

I started by making the next size down (a Medium). But I still wanted my neckline to be higher and more modest than the design, so I taped the front and sleeve together where they would be sewn (overlapped by 1 1/4” – two seam allowances) and re-drew the neckline. This is a raglan sleeve that is part of the neckline. If this top had a set in sleeve, I would only have to adjust the front.

I know you’re going to wonder about that sleeve pattern. I’m calling this my ‘Frankensleeve’ because I made so many changes. So, based on reviews around the web I learned that the sleeve on this top is baggy weird, almost a flutter sleeve, but not really. So instead of making the shoulder dart, I just made a pleat down the entire sleeve (the pattern, not the fabric) to take out fullness in the whole sleeve. It’s a big pleat, I know. But it worked. I did add shoulder darts back in later, when I fit the top to my body. I also curved the sleeve hem up a little in the middle because I like that look. 

For this top, I also changed the neckline and sleeve edge finish from a basic hem {really, on a neckline???} to a wrap around binding with the same fabric (I demonstrate that technique in this Sewing 201 post). It’s a much nicer finish, I think. I still used knit stay tape for the princess seams. I love that stuff. I also cut my front and back pieces on the fold to eliminate the extra seams. To do that, place the fabric fold along the ‘center front’ or ‘center back’ markings on the pattern. You can only do that if the seam you are eliminating is perfectly straight.

Like I mentioned before, I also put back in shoulder darts (which I eliminated when I was preparing my pattern pieces). I did this by trying on the top before I finished the neckline and pinched/pinned the darts in the right place. They help to make the neckline lay flat. 

And guess what, I totally love this version! This just goes to show that nearly every pattern will need to be adjusted to fit your body and your taste. Don’t fight it, just fit it! I have a dress form, but most of the time I find it easier to try something on and see how it looks just about every step of the way. It’s silly, I know. And sometimes (if I’m alone) I’m sewing in my underwear to save time changing clothes a zillion times.

Don’t be afraid to make alterations (taking something in, letting it out, adding a dart or a pleat) just to see how it changes your garment. If you’re not sure, use basting stitches so they can come out quickly if it’s not a good change. Then you can re-sew the seam with regular stitching if you like it.

And by all means, if you like some things about a pattern but not others, try again and make your own version. Sewing it the second time is usually faster anyway.

Oh, and one more thing… the skirt! It’s the Faux Wrap Pencil Skirt that Jen Schumann of icandy-handmade.com designed for Just For You. This is actually one of the skirts that I sewed to be photographed in the book, lol. I feel so famous wearing it.

So, what have you been sewing up this week? Did you make something with one of my free sewing tutorials or patterns? I would love to see! Tag me on Instagram @sewcanshe.

Happy Sewing!