Organized crochet hooks are a beautiful thing – it’s so easy to find just the one you want. Sew up this handy little case for your crochet hooks and they’ll always be at your fingertips. But really, you can make this fold over case to fit so many different items that I didn’t want to limit you.
I posted a few pictures of my case filled with cute bamboo crochet hooks and asked what you might put in the case instead. People answered pencils, pens, markers, make up brushes, knitting needles, and even leather punches!
UPDATE: This blog post has been converted to an optional PDF that’s optimized for printing. Find it here. The blog post below is totally free to read, print, and sew! Just hit CTRL +P on your computer to print. The PDF download for $2 is totally optional.
It’s also very interesting for me to know that so many of my sewing friends also crochet, just like me! Sewing and crochet must be two hobbies that go hand in hand. Although I can only call crochet a hobby. I would be hiding the truth if I called sewing anything other than an obsession in my life.
Anyway, here’s your sewing tutorial for this sweet little DIY case for organizing crochet hooks (or anything you like). You will probably have to alter the height of the case if you are planning to use it for items that are more than 7” tall. (My crochet hooks are 6” tall.)
The case is approximately 8” x 12” unrolled and 8” x 4” all rolled up.
The case has piping around the edges. Why? Because it looks amazing and it hides all my mistakes. Trust me. Don’t skip the piping. I will show you how easy it is to use.
The case features a vinyl shield that will help protect your items, but more importantly – it will keep them from falling out!
Once I realized why some cases include a flap like this, I thought it was genius. You can leave it off, but I don’t recommend that.
DIY Case for Crochet Hooks (or anything) Sewing Tutorial
less than a 1/4 yard of fabric total (I used a solid and a print – Les Fleurs Canvas – quilting cotton will also work great!)
a small scrap of mesh fabric (you can substitute regular cotton if you like)
1/4 yard of fusible fleece interfacing (I used HeatnBond)
40” of bias trim piping (I found mine at a thrift store, but the one called ‘Maxi Piping‘ is what I would use if I were buying more)
1 magnetic snap in your desired size
a small scrap of vinyl (you can find this in the upholstery section of the fabric store, or cut some from the packaging that sheets come in.)
You will also need:
Wonderclips or pins
a fabric marking pen (such as a Frixion pen)
Stiletto for sewing (optional, but you’ll use it all the time)
From quilting cotton or other fabric, cut:
2 rectangles 8” x 12” (the outside and inside of the case)
1 strip 1 1/2” x 8 1/2” (for binding the mesh)
1 strip 1 1/2” x 5” (for binding the mesh)
From mesh fabric, cut:
1 rectangle 5” x 8”
From the vinyl, cut:
1 rectangle 2” x 7 1/2”
From the fusible fleece, cut:
1 rectangle 8” x 12”
Make the Case Interior:
1. Fold both of the 1 1/2” tall strips in half lengthwise and press. Open them and press the edges to the center. Fold in half and press again.
2. Wrap the the shorter strip around the side of the mesh fabric piece. Pin or clip in place (clips are easier in this instance).
3. Stitch the binding in place close to the folds.
4. Next sew the longer piece of binding to the top of the mesh in the same way, except let the edge extend 1/2” past on the left side.
Then wrap the binding around to the back before you sew it.
This is where the stiletto comes in handy so you don’t sew your finger. 🙂
5. Pin or clip the mesh pocket piece to the 8” x 12” interior fabric piece at the lower right corner.
6. Sew the mesh to the fabric along the two edges within the 1/4” seam allowance.
7. When you reach the side binding, pivot and stitch up the edge of it. Then turn around at the top and stitch back down to the bottom of the piece (sewing on top of the previous stitching).
8. Starting at the side binding measure and mark lines that are 3/4” apart all the way across the mesh. Use a fabric pen that will disappear with heat or water.
9. Starting at the bottom, sew along each line and backstitch at the top to make each narrow pocket secure.
10. Make a mark on the case interior that’s 1 1/2” from the left edge and centered top to bottom. Using the manufacturer’s instructions, install one side of the magnetic snap over this mark. I like to re-inforce the back with a scrap of fusible fleece.
11. Use a spool of thread to mark rounded corners on all 4 corners of this piece. Cut the rounded corners.
Tip: While you are at it, you can apply the fusible fleece to the 8”x12” exterior fabric piece and then mark and cut rounded corners on all 4 corners of this piece too.
12. Mark and cut rounded corners on the two lower corners of the 2” x 7 1/2” piece of vinyl too, if desired. It’s really hard to see the vinyl in this photo!
13. Clip the vinyl to the top edge of the case interior, about 1/2” from the right side.
Baste the vinyl in place along the top edge, within the 1/4” seam allowance.
Tip: this is the only time you’ll be sewing directly on vinyl, but if your sewing machine foot sticks you can try:
using a teflon foot,
placing a bit of washi tape or masking tape on the bottom of your sewing machine foot, or
putting a drop of sewing machine oil on your finger and running it along the bottom of your foot (this method is my favorite)
Make the Case Exterior:
If you haven’t already, apply fusible fleece to the wrong side if the case exterior piece. Then round the corners using a spool of thread, as you did for the case interior.
1. Attach the piping to the edges of the case exterior as follows:
The line of stitching on the piping should be 1/4” from the edge. If it is not, trim some of the fabric away from the piping so that the piping has a 1/4” seam allowance.
Then line up the raw edge of the piping with the raw edge of your rounded exterior piece and pin or clip it in place if desired.
Make 1/4” clips in the piping to help curve it around the corners.
Overlap the ends at the center bottom of the piece.
Sew the piping to the fabric with a long basting stitch, sewing right on top of the stitching on the piping. Use a zipper foot (or piping foot) on your sewing machine to help you sew right next to the corded part.
Tip: Piping is made with cording or rope sewn into a tube. I like to pull the cording out by about 1” at each end and cut it off. Then the shorter end slips back up inside and I don’t have any bulk where my piping overlaps.
2. Install the other side of the magnetic snap to the left side of the case, centered and 2 1/2” from the edge.
Finish the Case:
1. Pin or clip the case exterior and the case interior right sides together.
Make sure that the snap pieces are on opposite sides when the case is right sides together.
Get ready to sew from the fusible fleece (exterior) side, because you want to sew on top of the basting stitches that you used to attach the piping.
2. Sew around the case with a 1/4” seam allowance (sewing on top of the basting stitches).
Leave 3” open for turning in a spot that doesn’t have mesh or vinyl.
3. Clip the corners to help them look nice after turning.
4. Turn the case right side out and press to give it a nice finish. You can press over the vinyl if you use a press cloth in between.
5. Tuck the raw edge at the opening under and hand or machine sew the opening closed (I hand sewed this part because machine sewing will show on the front, but that’s optional).
Insert your crochet hooks (or whatever you like) into the pockets and enjoy!
Trying to get organized? Me too! 🙂
You might also like these free sewing projects to make you more organized.
Disclosure: some of my posts contain affiliate links. If you purchase something through one of those links I may receive a small commission, so thank you for supporting SewCanShe when you shop! All of the opinions are my own and I only suggest products that I actually use. 🙂