Would you like to know how to bind your quilt with your sewing machine? Let me show you all my tricks. As I have grown to love modern quilts, and as the time I have to make them has become less and less – I opt to sew my quilt binding on all by machine now – and it looks beautiful!
Cutting and Joining the Binding Strips
1. Start by cutting enough 2 1/2’’ wide strips to go all the way around your quilt.
2. Sew the strips together at right angles as seen above.
Tip: You don’t have to draw a sewing line across the strip on top if you don’t want to, but it may help if you are just starting out.
3. Trim away the extra fabric 1/4’’ past the seam and press the seam open.
Repeat to join all of your binding strips.
4. Fold the binding in half lengthwise (wrong sides together) and press.
Attach the Binding to the Quilt
Make sure your quilt is ready – quilted, trimmed, and squared up.
In order to sew the binding entirely by machine (no hand sewing), use a 1/4’’ seam allowance to sew it to your quilt.
If possible, use a walking foot (or even feed foot) for attaching quilt binding. It helps prevent puckering.
Leave a tail of binding about 6-8” long, and start sewing the binding to the quilt on one side.
Mitering the Corners
1. To miter the corners, sew until you are 1/4” away from the edge on one side, and then backstitch. Remove the quilt from the sewing machine.
2. Fold the binding to the right, making a neat 45 degree angle.
3. Then fold the binding back to the left with the fold right on the edge. Secure with a clip or pin.
4. Start sewing on the new side of the quilt, near the end. Backstitch to the end, and then continue sewing the binding to your quilt.
Miter all the corners the same way.
Joining the Binding
1. Stop sewing the binding and backstitch when you are 4-6” away from the starting point. Move your quilt to the ironing board.
2. Bring the binding to meet in the middle and fold the ends back. Press the area where the two folds meet to make a nice crease.
3. Mark the crease with a pen, if desired.
Unfold the binding and place the two ends right sides together, matching the crease lines. Pin.
You may have to fold the quilt a bit to get the binding to match up nicely. The smaller the quilt, the trickier this might be.
Sew along the crease or drawn line and trim the seam allowance to 1/4”. Press or finger press the seam allowance open.
4. Refold the binding and finish sewing it to the quilt.
Securing the Binding to the Other Side
To finish sewing the binding down on the back of the quilt, I like to stitch in the ditch from the right side of the mini quilt, catching the binding on the back. In order for this to work, the binding must be wrapped tightly around and secured to the back.
You don’t absolutely have to, but my last binding trick uses glue. You can use the Super Stik fabric glue stick or another white glue stick that’s safe for fabric.
1. Apply the glus stick (optional) to the binding on the back, wrap it around, and use your iron to quickly set and dry the glue. That edge won’t move now, so you can safely sew from the front.
2. From the front of the quilt, sew in the ditch (as close to the binding as you can without sewing on it).
Tip: Try to start and stop on a piece of fabric that is the same color as your thread so the backstitching will be less noticable.
3. Continue all the way around. Fold the edges carefully around the corners to preserve your mitered corners.
Do you have any more tips or tricks to share? Tell us in the comments.
Disclosure: some of my posts contain affiliate links. If you purchase something through one of those links I may receive a small commission, so thank you for supporting SewCanShe when you shop! All of the opinions are my own and I only suggest products that I actually use. 🙂