Adorable Gnome Table Runner Pattern!

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This is the year of the gnomes! Put an adorable gnome on your table (actually two gnomes, one on either end!) with this easy to sew free gnome table runner pattern.

gnome table runner pattern

A new table runner like this is sure to liven up any room because this little guy will look awesome on a sideboard or even over your piano too!

This blog post has been converted to an optional PDF that’s optimized for printing. Find it here. The free Gnome Table Runner Pattern is included in the blog post below and is totally free to read, print, and sew! Just hit CTRL +P on your computer to print. The Optimized for Printing PDF download for $3 is totally optional. Did you know you can get ALL the Optimized for Printing PDF files organized in a library for you to access anytime you want? Check it out.

Maybe you’re already sewing gnomes and you’ve made my cute Christmas Gnome sewing pattern and my Gnome Forest Quilt. Well, then you need this gnome table runner too!

This free sewing tutorial and pattern is for a nice long table runner that’s approximately 83’’ x 13 1/2’’ long and there are gnomes at both ends. You can easily alter this free sewing pattern to make it longer or shorter to fit your table, or just sew a gnome at one end if you like.

This project can easily be made with lots of different kinds of fabrics, so you may have most of the materials in your sewing stash already. My gnome table runner is sewn with solid red quilting cotton for the base. The beard is grizzly bear faux fur. I had some cute sweater themed knit fabric that I used for the hat, although it could be any kind of fabric that you like or have on hand. My gnome’s nose and shoes are quilting cotton as well. The legs are flannel because I love that green stripe fabric!

Are you ready? Let’s sew!

Gnome Table Runner Pattern

Download the free Gnome Table Runner Templates here.

You will also need:

  • 1 3/4 yards fabric for the table runner base

  • a 5’’ x 8’’ piece of faux fur fabric for the beard (see my tips for cutting the faux fur below)

  • 1/2 yard fabric for the hat

  • a 2’’ x 2’’ scrap of fabric for the nose

  • 1/8 yard fabric for the boots

  • a 6’’ x 10’’ piece of fabric for the legs

  • 1/2 yard fusible web adhesive (such as HeatnBond lite)

  • fabric glue (such as Fabri-Tac)

  • chopstick or turning tool

  • a small amount of polyester stuffing such as Polyfil Royal Silk (what I used, it’s great for small stuffies)


Cutting Instructions

From the base fabric, cut:

  • 4 strips 14 1/2’’ x 42’’

Using the nose and boot templates, cut:

  • 8 from the boot template (4 reversed. Tip: keep the boots together in sets of two for easy sewing)

  • 2 from the nose template

From the leg fabric, cut:

  • 4 strips 2 3/4’’ x 6’’

Tape the two parts of the hat template together and use it to trace the hat shape onto the paper side of the fusible web adhesive two times.

Cut out the hat shapes from the fusible web and fuse the pieces to the back of the hat fabric.

Cut out the hat shapes along your traced lines.

Cut the beard from your faux fur fabric.

Here are some tips:

First take a look at your faux fur fabric and take note of the direction of the nap (the way the fur lays). You want the fur to lay downward on the gnome’s beard.

Then turn the faux fur over to the back and trace the shape of the beard. Trace your template at the top edge of your faux fur fabric to ensure that the beard is nice and long (below I’ve included a picture of what it would look like if you cut your beard from the bottom of the fur piece).

Carefully cut out the beard shape using just the ends of your scissors to snip along the line, cutting only the fabric that the fur is attached to (not the long fur).


Here’s a picture of what might happen if you cut your beard from the bottom edge of your fur. The fur on that beard is cut too short at the bottom because that edge was cut by the person at the fabric store cutting counter.


Stop sewing here.

Sew the Boots and Legs

1. Pin two boot pieces right sides together and sew from the top front edge of the boot and around the toe. Then backstitch and cut threads. Use a 1/4’’ seam allowance.

Tip: If the top corner of your boot is getting caught in the feed dogs when you start sewing, use a leader to start. A leader is a piece of scrap fabric folded up that can be sewn over first, then insert and start sewing your small pieces. Cut the leader off when you are done.

2. Repeat to make 4 boots. Trim the seams that you just sewed with pinking shears (or cut small notches in the seam) to help the boots turn nicely.


3. Open each boot and pin the top straight seam to the short end of a leg piece.

4. Stitch with a 1/4’’ seam allowance.

5. Fold the leg lengthwise right sides together and sew from the top edge downward with a 1/4’’ seam allowance.


Continue sewing onto the boot and around until you reach the place where you stopped sewing previously and backstitch again. Cut notches or trim the rest of the seam with pinking shears.

Repeat to make 4 legs with boots.


6. Use the chopstick to turn the boots right side out. Then use the blunt end to stuff small bits of the polyfil stuffing down into the boots.


Sew the Table Runner Together

1. Sew two 14 1/2’’ x 42’’ fabric rectangles together along one short end. Press the seam flat to one side.

Topstitch on one side, 1/8’’ from the seam. This makes the center seam in your table runner look intentional, instead of a way to save fabric.

Repeat with the other two 14 1/2’’ x 42’’ fabric rectangles.


2. On one of the long fabric strips, mark the center at both short ends.

Flatten each leg piece so the seam runs down the back of the leg. Pin two legs to a runner piece (the front) at one of the ends. Each leg should be 1/2’’ away from the center mark. The front of each leg should be against the right side of the table runner.

Stitch across the ends of the legs 1/4’’ from the edge. Repeat with the remaining two legs on the opposite side of the table runner front.


3. The remaining long piece is the table runner back. Pin it to the table runner front right sides together, with the legs in between.

4. Sew all the way around the table runner, leaving a 6’’ opening for turning it right side out. Use a 1/2’’ seam allowance.


5. Trim the corners without cutting the stitching.

Turn the table right side out through the opening. Press it flat, carefully turning out all of the straight edges.

6. Topstitch all the way around the table runner 1/8’’ from the edge, closing the opening at the same time.


Finish Sewing the Gnomes!

Make sure to use matching thread for sewing all of these steps.

1. Apply fabric glue to the back of a beard piece and attach it about 1/2’’ above the legs.


2. Place a dot of glue in the center of a nose piece and attach it to the beard in the center at the top.

Repeat with the remaining beard and nose pieces at the other end of the table runner.

Allow the glue to dry completely before moving on.


3. After the glue has dried, check to see how well the beard is attached. If desired, lift up the fur around the lower curved edge and carefully sew along the edge to attach each beard permanently.

4. Starting at the top, sew around the nose pieces 1/8’’ from the edge.


5. Remove the paper backing from the hat pieces and arrange them above the beards, overlapping the beards and noses by 1/4’’ – 1/2’’. Press well to fuse.


6. Carefully sew around the hat pieces close to the edge. Start by sewing across the bottom of the hat to attach it to the fur.

And then sew around the top of the hat.


You can use just about any stitch to attach the hat, but I used my sewing machine’s honeycomb stitch to emphasize the sweater look!

Enjoy your double gnome table runner! As usual, I love to see the things you make using my patterns and tutorials. Upload a picture to Instagram and tag me #sewcanshe or @sewcanshe so I can see!

Happy sewing,


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