Sew the Miracle Caddy: free sewing pattern for a multi-purpose organizer

The Miracle Caddy organizer pattern is perfect for taking your favorite craft supplies, classroom items, or baby gear on the go. This multi-purpose organizer is exactly what you need!

Use my free sewing pattern to make it using your favorite fabrics and it will be the most beautiful caddy you’ve ever had.

This blog post has been converted to an optional PDF that’s optimized for printing. Find it here. The free Miracle Caddy Pattern is included in the blog post below and is free to read, print, and sew! Just hit CTRL +P on your computer to print. The PDF download is inexpensive and optional. Did you know you can get ALL the Optimized for Printing PDF files organized in a library to access anytime you want? Check it out.

My inspiration for this project came from a diaper caddy (which would be perfect for new moms), but since I’m way past the baby stage I decided to make one to help me carry craft and sewing supplies.

A great multi-purpose caddy like this would also be perfect for teachers and all the things they have to tote around.

In this organizer pattern, I’ll also share how to make different-sized dividers to make the caddy even better a keeping your items organized.

The photo above shows Divider 1 (that intersects the caddy widthwise) and Divider 1B which connects to Divider 1 to make two sections on that side.

Divider 2 divides the caddy lengthwise in case you need to carry longer items (like rolls of embroidery stabilizer or vinyl for your Cricut cutter). 🙂

And don’t forget that there are a total of 10 pockets around the caddy for holding smaller items too!

Just so you know, the fabrics that I used for my gray caddy are older and I couldn’t find them available anywhere to buy, but I sewed my pink caddy from the new Speckled basic fabrics by Ruby Star Society (I used Strawberry and Cotton Candy Pink). At the time of writing, there are still lots of colors available at Fat Quarter Shop and on Amazon.

Are you ready to sew the Miracle Caddy Organizer Pattern? Let’s get sewing!

Finished size: approximately 7” tall x 15” long x 9” wide (not including the handles)

You will need:

• 1 1/4 yards of fabric for the caddy exterior and dividers
• 1 1/4 yards of fabric for the caddy lining and handles
• 3/4 yds of foam stabilizer that is 60’’ wide (such as ByAnnie Soft and Stable)*
• 1/2 yard fusible fleece stabilizer (for the handles)
• Basting spray (such as SpraynBond or 505)
• fabric marking pen (such as a frixion pen)
• 2 yards of 3/4’’ wide hook and loop tape (velcro)

Stabilizer Tips:

You could use double-sided fusible foam stabilizer instead of the sew-in type from ByAnnie. I dislike how much time it takes to press-fuse foam stabilizer to the fabric so I find it more convenient and faster to simply use the non-fusible variety together with basting spray.

You could also use a fusible fleece stabilizer for this entire project (not just the handles), but the caddy will not be as sturdy as it is using a foam stabilizer.

Cutting Instructions

From the fabric for the caddy exterior, cut:

• 1 rectangle 10’’ x 16’’ (caddy bottom)
• 2 rectangles 7 1/2’’ x 16’’ (sides)
• 2 rectangles 7 1/2’’ x 10’’ (ends)
• 2 rectangles 5’’ x 16’’ (side pockets)
• 2 rectangles 5’’ x 10’’ (end pockets)

From the fabric for the caddy lining, cut:

• 1 rectangle 10’’ x 16’’ (caddy bottom)
• 2 rectangles 7 1/2’’ x 16’’ (sides)
• 2 rectangles 7 1/2’’ x 10’’ (ends)
• 2 rectangles 5’’ x 16’’ (side pockets)
• 2 rectangles 5’’ x 10’’ (end pockets)
• 4 strips 2 1/4’’ x 16’’ (binding for sides and side pockets)
• 4 strips 2 1/4’’ x 10’’ (binding for ends and end pockets)
• 4 strips 2 1/2’’ x 24’’ (handles)

From the foam stabilizer, cut:

• 1 rectangle 8 1/2’’ x 14 1/2’’ (caddy bottom)
• 2 rectangles 6 3/4’’ x 14 1/2’’ (sides)
• 2 rectangles 6 3/4’’ x 8 1/2’’ (ends)
• 2 rectangles 4 1/4’’ x 14 1/2’’ (side pockets)
• 2 rectangles 4 1/4’’ x 8 1/2’’ (end pockets)

From the fusible fleece interfacing, cut:

• 2 strips 2 1/2’’ x 24’’ (for the handles – it’s ok to use shorter strips and fuse them to the fabric next to each other)

Here are the cutting instructions for each divider separately – in case you don’t want to make all of them:

For Divider 1, cut:

• 1 fabric rectangle 14’’ x 9’’
• 2 fabric strips 3’’ x 7 1/4’’ (side velcro panels)
• 1 fabric strip 3’’ x 8 1/4’’ (bottom velcro panel)
• 1 piece of foam stabilizer 6 3/4’’ x 8 1/2’’

For Divider 1B, cut:

• 1 fabric rectangle 14’’ x 7 1/2’’
• 2 fabric strips 3’’ x 7 1/4’’ (side velcro panels)
• 1 fabric strip 3’’ x 6 3/4’’ (bottom velcro panel)
• 1 piece of foam stabilizer 6 3/4’’ x 7’’

For Divider 2, cut:

• 1 fabric rectangle 14’’ x 15’’
• 2 fabric strips 3’’ x 7 1/4’’ (side velcro panels)
• 1 fabric strip 3’’ x 14 1/4’’ (bottom velcro panel)
• 1 piece of foam stabilizer 6 3/4’’ x 14 1/2’’

Spray Baste the Foam Stabilizer to the Fabric Pieces

In my sewing room, I keep a large box for all of my spray basting (I do it a lot for machine embroidery too). As you can see, lots of thread and fuzz are stuck to the bottom – but that’s fine. This helps me keep from getting spray glue all over my sewing table, floor, and machines.

1. Place a 7 1/2’’ x 10’’ end lining fabric piece right side down on your workspace. Lightly spray the wrong side of the fabric with spray baste.

Place one of the 6 3/4’’ x 8 1/2’’ end stabilizer pieces on top, with the top edges aligned. There will be 3/4’’ of extra fabric around the sides and bottom of the foam.

Lightly spray again with spray baste.

Place a matching exterior fabric piece on top, wrong side down, lined up with the lining fabric on the bottom.

2. Remove the fabric and stabilizer ‘sandwich’ from your spraying area and smooth out the fabric on both sides.

Repeat this process with the other end pieces of fabric and stabilizer, and all of the side pieces, end pockets, and side pockets.

3. Fuse the 10’’ x 16’’ caddy bottom fabric pieces to the 8 1/2’’ x 14 1/2’’ stabilizer piece in the same way, except for the bottom of the caddy, the stabilizer should be centered inside the fabric layers.

You should have 9 double-sided fabric and stabilizer sandwiches:

• 2 side pieces
• 2 end pieces
• 2 side pocket pieces
• 2 end pocket pieces
• 1 bottom piece

Attach Soft Pieces of Hook and Loop Tape

1. The hook and loop tape comes with 2 different kinds of tape – one soft and the other scratchy.

Cut 4 pieces from the soft tape, each piece 6 3/4’’ long.

Center one of the tapes vertically on the inside (lining) side of one of the ‘side’ pieces. Pin the top end at the top edge of the side piece. It will extend down and end where the foam ends. Pin the bottom end in place too so the tape doesn’t move when you sew it.

2. Sew the tape in place, sewing all the way around close to the edge of the tape.

Repeat to sew a soft piece of tape vertically down the center of both side pieces and both end pieces (not the pocket pieces). Note that all of the tapes are lined up with the top edge.

3. Cut two more pieces of the softer tape:

• 1 piece 14 1/2’’
• 1 piece 8 1/2’’

On the lining side of the bottom piece, pin and stitch the 14 1/2’’ long tape centered horizontally. Then pin and stitch the 8 1/2’’ tape centered vertically.

Bind the Top Edges of the Sides, Ends, Side Pockets, and End Pockets

1. Fold one of the 2 1/4’’ x 16’’ binding strips in half lengthwise.

Pin it to the top edge of one of the side pieces, on the lining side with the raw edges aligned.

2. Sew the binding with a 1/4’’ seam allowance.

3. Wrap the binding around to the front (exterior) side of the piece. Pin or clip in place.

Sew the binding down close to the fold.

Repeat to bind the top edges of the sides, ends, side pockets, and end pockets.

Attach the Organizer Pockets

1. Use a fabric marking pen to draw a vertical line down the center of the two end pocket pieces.

2. On each side pocket piece, draw vertical lines that are 5 1/2’’ away from each side edge.

3. Place one of the side pocket pieces on top of a side piece with the bottom edges aligned. Pin together.

I found it was easiest to keep the layers lined up if I pinned through the fabric layers only along the sides and bottom.

4. Baste the layers together along the sides and bottom.

5. Sew dividing lines for the pockets starting at the bottom and sewing up along the lines that you marked. Backstitch neatly at the top of each pocket.

Repeat to attach both side pocket pieces and both end pocket pieces.

Make and Attach the Handles

1. Press to fuse the 2 1/2’’ x 24’’ strips of fusible fleece stabilizer to the wrong side of two 2 1/2’’ x 24’’ handle pieces.

Note: in the photo above you can see that one of my handle pieces was pieced together. That’s fine as long as you use a pieced-together strip for the inside of the handle. Don’t fuse interfacing to the two strips that will be the inside of the handles.

2. Finish sewing the handles using my Japanese Style Bag Handle tutorial. Use the instructions for the shorter handle.

3. On one of the caddy side pieces, measure 1/2’’ over from one of the pocket divider lines and draw a vertical line above the pocket using the fabric marking pen.

Then measure 1/2’’ above the pocket and draw a horizontal line as seen above.

4. Place one of the handle ends against the two marked lines, as seen above. Pin in place.

5. Draw similar lines on the other side of the caddy side piece (1/2’’ away from the pocket dividing line and 1/2’’ above the top edge of the pocket.

Pin the other end of the handle in place just like the first.

6. Begin to sew the handle in place by stitching across it along (right on top of ) the stitching on the top edge binding.

Pivot and sew in a rectangle 1/8’’ from the edges of the handle end.

Then stitch over your previous stitching so you can sew an ‘X’ in the center of the rectangle. This will reinforce the handle and make it extra secure.

Use this process to sew all 4 handle ends in place.

Sew the Caddy Together with French Seams

To prevent very thick seams (and broken needles) there is no stabilizer in the caddy seam allowances, plus the seams will not continue into the corners until the very last step.

You will sew each side seam stopping where the stabilizer ends at the bottom corner. When attaching the bottom piece, you’ll start and stop where you can see (and feel) the corners of the stabilizer inside the fabric layers. I have placed pins to mark where the sewing stops at each corner.

Use a 1/4’’ seam allowance.

1. Place one side piece on your workspace with the lining side up. Place an end piece on top, lining side down with the side edges lined up.

Pin the two pieces together. Put one pin at the bottom corner 3/4’’ above the bottom edge of the fabric where you can see the shape of the corner of the stabilizer.

2. Start sewing on the binding at the top edge. Make sure to backstitch.

Sew down to the pin at the bottom – make sure you stop sewing and backstitch 3/4’’ before the bottom edge (where you can feel the corner of the stabilizer through the fabric layers).

3. Trim away the seam allowance next to the stitching to just 1/8’’

4. Open the piece and from the inside, gently press the seam to open it completely.

5. Now fold the seam back so that the exterior fabrics are facing each other. Pinch the edge flat and run your hand along the inside to ensure that the seam is straight.

6. Start sewing at the top edge again. Backstitch and sew along the seam 1/4’’ from the edge.

Stop sewing and backstitch in the same place as before (where you can feel the corner of the stabilizer through the fabric layers).

Now one end piece is attached using a French seam so the raw edges are enclosed.

7. Sew the opposite end piece to the other side of the caddy side piece in the same way.

8. Pin one long edge of the bottom piece to the long bottom edge of the side piece with the lining fabrics facing each other.

Use pins to mark where you will start and stop sewing – 3/4’’ from each end where you can feel the corner of the stabilizer through the fabric.

Sew these pieces together with a French seam as before.

9. Pin and stitch the remaining side piece to the other side of the caddy bottom along the long edge.

Sew this seam. Once more, take care to start and stop sewing – 3/4’’ from each end where you can feel the corner of the stabilizer through the fabric.

10. Attach the last side piece to the caddy ends as before.

The last seams to sew on the caddy are to attach the ends and the bottom.

11. Flatten one end against the bottom of the caddy (lining fabrics together). Use your fingers to push all of the fabric layers at the corners out so that none are caught inside the caddy when you sew this seam.

Pin and sew all the way across the edge (not starting and stopping 3/4’’ from the ends anymore).

12. Trim the seam allowance to 1/8’’.

13. Carefully fold the piece with the exterior sides together.

Since the corners can be pretty thick, I found it helpful to sew the final seams starting in the middle (on the velcro tape) and then sewing into the corner slowly as far as I can go without breaking a needle.

Then repeat, sewing in the other direction into the opposite corner.

This final seam may be sewn with a 3/8’’ seam allowance to ensure that you catch all of the raw edges in the French seam and nothing shows at the corners on the exterior of the caddy.

Repeat steps 11-13 above to sew the last seam in the bottom of the caddy.

Your Miracle Caddy is done and it’s time to sew the dividers!

Here’s the tutorial for the Miracle Caddy Dividers.

I put the rest of this organizer pattern in a second blog post so that this first post wouldn’t get too long and load too slowly.

I’d love to see your caddies! Upload a picture to Instagram and tag me @sewcanshe or #sewcanshe so I can take a look!

If you like this tutorial, you’ll love my 11 Free Sewing Projects to Make You More Organized.

xoxo,